At Barker Roofing, Siding & Windows we strive to keep our
customers informed with trends in the Home Renovations
industry. We have compiled a list of the most common questions
and industry terminology requests we are asked, and as a Free
service we have listed them here below.
If your question is not listed below or if you require
additional information, please feel free to
As part of our
continuing service to our clients we offer this piece of
A new roof is a big job. And a big investment. That's why we
strongly recommend that you hire a professional roofing
contractor who can offer proven experience, a written estimate
and worry-free installation. To make sure you're choosing the
best, use our handy checklist before you sign a contract:
Does the contractor:
- Have a good reputation?
Check for references and call a few of them.
- Have adequate insurance coverage?
Protect your home from accidental damage
- Thoroughly inspect your roof?
Including flashing chimney, soil stacks, other roof
penetration, deck, plus attic
- Provide a written estimate?
Including an accurate description of the work to be
performed, plus work that may have to be contracted out?
- Explain the entire roof system?
Your roof is a series of components that work together; you
should know all about them.
- Check existing ventilation for proper circulation?
Explain the importance of ventilation?
Improper ventilation will damage your shingles and can
invalidate your manufacturer's warranty.
- Explain reasons for tearing off versus nailing over the
Local codes determine the maximum number of nail-overs.
- Know, explain and comply with local building codes?
- Apply underlayment to the wood deck?
Additional waterproofing underlayment might be needed if ice
damming, wind-driven rain, or collected or flowing water
might be a problem.
- Apply shingles according to manufacturer's
- Use proper fastening techniques?
Four fasteners for each shingle - six in high wind areas.
Fasteners should penetrate 3/4" into the deck.
- Commit to supervise the job during all phases of work
and inspect it completely when finished?
- Thoroughly clean up your roof and around your house when
finished? Remove all surplus material? Leave your yard in
the same shape the contractor found it?
- Clearly explain both the workmanship and manufacturer's
warranty? Are defective shingles replaced for prorated
replacement cost, or original cost, with labor additional?
You should be very clear about who to call with a problem.
- Offer any additional warranty coverage?
- Use quality roofing materials?
Check warranty plus UL fire and wind resistance ratings.
Choose a name you trust - not all shingles are the same.
Q. How do I know if I need a new roof. What do I look for?
A. Look for trouble on your roof before it causes problems
inside your home.
Clawing, .Buckling, Cracking, Curling, Missing or damaged
shingles, Cracks in asphalt valleys, Missing or cracked
caulking along flashing.
Venting - Proper ventilation is a must. Warm air
build-up in the attic or air space can prematurely deteriorate
your roof and make your home uncomfortably warm in the summer
and cause condensation in the attic in the winter. If you can,
look at the underside of your roof sheeting on a cold day in
the winter, if there is frost there you will know something
needs to be done to improve the ventilation.
On a pitched roof with an attic there should be one sq. ft.
of venting for every 300 square feet of attic space. There are
a variety of prefinished roof vents on the market today:
regular gravity roof vents (most commonly used), turbine roof
vents and powered roof vents. Homes with cathedral ceilings
must have continuous venting along the ridge.
Flashings - are installed along walls, chimneys and
other structures which protrude above the roof.
Where the roof slopes away from a structure a one piece
flashing may be used. Where the roof is perpendicular to a
structure a two-part step flashing and cope flashing system
must be used. These flashings are made of prefinished steel or
aluminum, copper or lead. The flashing makes a mechanical seal
at the roof line which will last the life of the roof and
which looks good.
Valleys - Where two slopes of the roof meet, a valley
is formed where a majority of run-off water will travel. We
install pre-finished steel valleys with an underlay.
Eaves protection is installed under the shingles along the
bottom edge of the roof. This prevents water from ice dams
from penetrating to the roof sheeting and into your home. A 15
lb. felt asphalt paper is generally used. For the best
protection an ice and water shield can be installed. The ice
and water shield adheres to the roof sheeting and when the
shingles are nailed on over the ice and water shield seals
around the nails. This material does not prevent ice dams, but
it does stop leakage into your home. Eaves protection should
extend at least one foot beyond the interior of the house
Drip edge or eaves starter is a formed metal installed at the
bottom of a roof to ensure the run-off water enters into the
eaves trough. This is more of a consideration for lower